I know you’ve all been very curious about my fish tanks. I know it! So I won’t keep you in suspense.
The shrimp tank has been completely neglected, but the plants are still ok. There’s a hair algae problem, but I just stick a fork in there and twirl like I’m eating spaghetti. The hair algae comes out pretty well that way. The shrimp are doing very well (as well as several species of snails! They hitch hike on plants.) The females had babies and the offspring range from 2mm to 1cm. I would have photos for you, but the smaller one’s are total spazzes, so they’re always a bit of a blur. I’m feeding them hikari shrimp cuisine and hikari crab cuisine. At first, the original group wouldn’t eat it, but it seems like the offspring will eat anything. But none of them seem to be starving since their bellies are always full of something, so they’re eating.
I’ve also made a couple of upgrades to the tank. Originally, I was doing a DIY CO2 setup for all the tanks. That consisted of bakers yeast, sugar, several bottles and tubes. Well, that got old quick as the bottles had leaks and you had to make sure the yeast was still going. I did DIY for years on the 10 gallon and things were fine. But the plants I had were easy to find from the pet store. Now that I had these hard to find plants, I didn’t want to kill them.
I had always thought that a CO2 setup would cost me hundreds of dollars, but it turns out that’s not the case. You can get one for about $50 and here’s how. You get a paintball co2 regulator. I got mine from That Pet Place. I also got a paintball co2 canister from amazon. They sell several varieties. I just chose the cheapest one since all I needed it to do was dispense co2. I didn’t need it to be super light or have all these special doohickies.
And all you have to do is screw it on. Make sure the valve is closed on the regulator. It’s easy because it says Shut -> and Open <-.
You need a light touch with the valve. Like a teeny weeny little turn will give you several bubbles a second. So be aware of that when you turn it on. Otherwise you’ll get a bubble explosion. If you have your tube connected to a glass diffuser, it’ll blow it off the tubing.
The second thing I got was a hagen elite mini that I got from Petco. When you have CO2, you need to disburse it into the tank. The smaller the bubbles the better because you want it to dissolve in the water rather than float up to the top and dissipate. I like using this rather than a glass diffuser because this will blow the bubbles across the tank whereas the glass diffuser would just go straight up.
It looks like this out of the box.
What you do is open up the unit, take out the foam filter, remove the green tab.
Now stick the tubing into the slot on the side where you moved the green tab and put the unit back together. Leave out the foam. If you leave the foam in, the tube won’t stay in.
This is what it should look like. Two things to note. The first is that if you have thick rigid tubing (like a CO2 resistant tubing), the unit won’t stay closed. What I did was have the tube spit out the CO2 bubbles through the bottom of the unit where it sucks in water. That’s what happened in the 10 gallon tank. Also, if you leave the foam in the unit, the bubbles will also get stuck in the unit. Eventually, the bubbles will lump together and spit out in a huge burp, which totally defeats the purpose of small bubbles.
The second is that when the bubbles go through the propeller and makes the bubbles smaller, it sounds like a wet sneeze. Nobody talked about that in any of the forums that I read. So I’m telling you now. Wet sneeze. All day long.
Now if you already have a glass diffuser, you can put that at the bottom of the unit and have the bubbles sent up into the unit. When you do this, you won’t get the sneezing noise.
And it’s been pruned quite heavily! Does it look overgrown to you?